Upper Mustang: Trekking Nepal's Forbidden Kingdom

A living slice of old Tibet behind the Himalaya — and one of the few treks you can do in summer.

Upper Mustang feels like stepping into another country. Hidden in the rain shadow north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs, this high desert was a restricted kingdom — the Kingdom of Lo — closed to outsiders until 1992. Today it is one of the best-preserved examples of traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture anywhere on earth.

What makes it special

The landscape is otherworldly: wind-carved cliffs in ochre and grey, ancient cave dwellings cut into canyon walls, whitewashed monasteries and the walled capital of Lo Manthang, where a royal palace and centuries-old gompas still stand. Because it sits behind the high peaks, Upper Mustang stays dry during the monsoon — making it one of the only great treks you can do in summer.

The journey

Most trips begin in Pokhara with a short flight or drive to Jomsom, then trek north up the Kali Gandaki — the world's deepest gorge — through Kagbeni and a string of medieval villages to Lo Manthang. You'll explore the walled city and surrounding monasteries before returning. Jeep-supported and fully trekking versions are both possible.

Permits and access

Upper Mustang is a restricted area with a special permit that must be arranged through a registered agency, with a licensed guide and a minimum group size. We organise the Restricted Area Permit and the Annapurna Conservation Area permit, and handle all logistics from Pokhara.

When to go

Unlike most of Nepal, Upper Mustang is at its best from late spring through summer and into autumn, precisely because the monsoon largely passes it by. The Tiji festival in Lo Manthang (spring) is a spectacular time to visit if your dates align.